WIP: HP Torque Twisted Hem Top

The only review that I could find for this top mentioned that the armholes were big. Given the amount of effort that went into making my Hot Patterns sleepwear look normal, I was not surprised by the strange sizing. The blue knit top is a slouchy fitting favorite of mine. Obviously there was work to be done. I cut out a size 10 and ended up with something closer to a 12, but with the armholes drastically reduced.

The side seams had a really intense curve for a defined waist, but I prefer a straight cut on my knit tops.

The sleeve pattern piece was a little intimidating, but I did it. Hooray for a semester of pattern-making at community college! Totes worth it.

Alright, alright. It's a bit anti-climatic on the hanger, but believe me that it is cute on (I'm too lazy/disheveled to model tonight). I AM SO EXCITED ABOUT IT. I think I'll use a grey rayon blend that I picked up for cheap at Designer's Resource for the real deal. But don't hold me to that.

Clover: Rounds 2 & 3

I'm just about done posting pictures of my bottom half in tight pants. Don't worry!

This isn't my first time sewing pants. I've made jeans. But non-stretch jeans are significantly different than stretchy cigarette pants. These have been really tough to fit mainly because of my muslin fabric choices.

Round 2 was sewn up in mystery material from Joann's that I swear had something about "reversible jeggings" on the fabric bolt. It's the stretchiest of stretchy material and so incredible comfortable. I have enough left over to make these leggings once this Clover business is over with.

Anyway, I altered the pattern by doing a full butt adjustment and took out 1" horizontally from the front and back pieces. I also brought the legs in quite a bit. When I first tried these on they barely fit, but by the end of the day - yes, I wore them all day - they were perfect! But I still let the legs back out a bit for the final pair. The sides were really bunchy and weird, so I straightened the hip curve just a touch on both pieces.

 

Oh boy. Round 3 is in periwinkle corduroy with no stretch. I'm not entirely sure why I thought that would be a good idea, but here we are. I'm not even going to show you the back because it reminds me of sausage casings. For this muslin I slashed and spread [more] the back crotch area thinking that I would have some more room for my tush. Not the case! I still have diagonal wrinkles and tightness. Obviously it will look different and better in a stretch fabric, but the extra room is definitely needed. I did another FBA and am hoping for the best. The front crotch is still kind of weird too, but I think if I take in a bit more at the center front seam it will be fixed.

At this point I'm just going to go for it. No more muslins. I've enjoyed the process because I LOVE messing around with fit and patterns, but it's time to move on. I'm still using mustard corduroy, but I also found some cute, stretchy lightweight denim in my stash that I might use up as well.

I've been knitting my little heart out and Kaide is almost finished! The front pieces need to be blocked and then it's just seaming and the collar that's left. Hooray! So expect to see some exciting stuff here in the next week.

Clover: Round 1

I completely missed the sewalong, but now I'm ready to go!

In order to use Colette's fit guide correctly, I needed to figure out my problem areas. The diagonal lines across my butt and pooling underneath indicates that a full butt adjustment is needed. The waist and hips fit great, but the legs are suuuper baggy. I like my pants tight! There were frown lines by my crotch, so I pinched out an inch at the center front seam.

That looks better, right? I'll also do a slight adjustment for my knock knees. I'm still undecided on the length. I think these will be relatively high-waisted and if that's the case then I can wear them with flats. But I mostly think they should be worn with heels. I lengthened the pattern by 2 7/8" and have taken up a 5/8" hem. I think they need to be a touch shorter.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Fit Issues and Muslins

One of the reasons I sew is to get a nicely fitted garment. I actually enjoy the process of altering patterns and making muslins. Here are a couple of tanks that I was testing out.

I forgot to do the exposed bias trim on the armholes. Oops!

I like to topstitch so the band lays flat.

Pattern: the ubiquitous Sorbetto
Mods: Size 2 with a 1/2" fba. I had to add a bottom band because it was too short. Next time I'll slash the pattern near the top and add about 1/8." The bust darts are a bit too high.
Fabric: Cheap-o fake linen from Joann's. I should've ironed this, but it seriously wrinkles so fast that I'm not sure it even matters.

I'm not sure I'll wear this on its own. The darts really bother me. Paired with a lightweight cardi, it might look cute in the spring.

I read the Sorbetto instructions first and loved the idea of doing exposed bias trim.

Quick n' dirty hem. I do these often.

Pattern: Tiny Pocket Tank
Mods: Size 4 with a 3/4" FBA. I left off the pocket because the poly fabric was impossible to deal with.
Fabric: Polyester heavy gauze stuff that I probably bought from Joann's.

Taking pictures has really helped me objectively assess my finished pieces. I didn't like the white tank top because of the fabric and color, but pictured here it's not so bad, right? 

It's practically October and I'm still sewing summer-y clothes. I need to come up with some solid fall sewing plans. I'm thinking a double-knit sheath dress, pants, knit tops and a coat would round out my wardrobe nicely.